Nepal: Trekking Day 4 - Ghandruk to Nayapul

We woke up to our last day on the trek to a view of the Annapurna ranges looming over our cottage. Yesterday afternoon had been overcast, so it came as a shock that the mountains had been so close to us all along. That’s a funny thing about the mountains: the weather is so changeable that sometimes a single cloud moves and an entire peak is revealed, glistening white and on top of the world.





From Ghandruk, we took a very steep descent down the side of a valley, and the scenery on our way down was probably the best of the trek. We passed by numerous villages and terraces, half hidden in wisps of clouds. Bare bottomed children ran around, their faces covered in snot and tears. Women quietly harvested rice. Teenagers in neat high school uniforms headed off to school, skipping lightly down stony steps that trekkers struggle to navigate. Goats tied to poles gazed at us, their faces an inherent smile. Ponies ambled past us, their bells echoing faintly in the distance long after our encounter.

I was in photographic overdrive, trying to catch every snippet of this other world tucked away in the mountains before I have to leave. But there are things you cannot take with you, things that eyes can’t see: like the smell of grass and horse shit, the dampness of a cloud as it embraces you, that moment as you turn around a bend and face a snowy peak, so beautiful and rugged it literally tugs at your heartstrings.

And when we finally reached the bottom, when we turned the final bend, we have come full circle to our starting point. The city awaits.

xx doots

Nepal: Trekking Day 2 - Hile to Ghorepani

Day 2 was the beginning of our nightmare.

As we made our way up thousands of steps over the course of the morning, it became painfully obvious to us that we had underestimated the sheer steepness of the terrain in Nepal. To add insult to injury, local children would hop up the stairs between us wearing thongs (flip flops), while we struggled for breath in our Goretex hiking boots and state-of-the-art trekking poles. Our porter, who was carrying both of our luggage in one pack, barely broke a sweat as he leisurely made his way up the mountain while texting his friends.

Around noon, we reached the forrest part of the trek, where the route levelled off to a more reasonable incline. From there on, the afternoon became marginally easier as we were mostly walking in the shade, accompanied by a soundtrack of passing streams and waterfalls until we got to Ghorepani late in the afternoon.

At the altitude of 2775m above sea level, Ghorepani is the highest town on the Poon Hill circuit, and the ideal spot to rest the night before climbing up to the Poon Hill summit the next morning to watch the sun rise.

People can be rather divided about Ghorepani and Poon Hill. Some find it beautiful, and the highlight of the trip. Others find it too rowdy, too touristy, or lacking in authenticity.

I didn’t care. We were some 2700 metres above sea level, higher than the entire continent of Australia. We were surrounded by the snowy peaks of the Himalayas. We had a working hot shower, and a fire heated dining hall, in which we spent a merry night eating dhal bhat, drinking hot tea, and debating the best of Australian rock with perfect strangers. Touristy is good.

xx doots







Annapurna South peeking out in the morning. 





Reaching the shadier part of the trek. 





The gate to Ghorepani



Main street in town. There was even phone reception and wifi. HEAVEN.